How To Remove Drivetrain Bicycle | Expert Step-by-Step

Understanding the Bicycle Drivetrain Components

The drivetrain is the heart of your bicycle’s propulsion system. It converts your pedaling effort into forward motion by transferring power from the pedals to the rear wheel. Key components include the crankset, chainrings, chain, cassette or freewheel, derailleurs, and bottom bracket.

The crankset consists of one or more chainrings attached to cranks that connect to the pedals. The chain wraps around these rings and the cassette at the rear hub. The cassette is a cluster of sprockets that determine gear ratios. Derailleurs guide the chain across gears for smooth shifting. The bottom bracket houses bearings allowing the crank arms to rotate smoothly.

Removing these parts requires a solid grasp of their functions and connections. Each component interlocks with others but can be separated with proper tools and technique. This article walks you through how to remove each drivetrain part safely and efficiently.

Essential Tools for Removing a Bicycle Drivetrain

Before diving in, gather these tools to make the process smooth:

• Chain breaker tool: To split or reconnect your bike chain.
• Cassette lockring tool: For loosening/removing the cassette from the hub.
• Chain whip: Holds the cassette in place while loosening lockrings.
• Hex wrenches/Allen keys: Common sizes like 4mm, 5mm, and 8mm for bolts on cranks and derailleurs.
• Bottom bracket tool: Specific to your bike’s bottom bracket type (external or cartridge).
• Screwdrivers: Usually Phillips or flathead for derailleur adjustments or cable removal.
• Pliers or cable cutters: For cutting cables if necessary.

Having all these ready saves time and prevents frustration mid-job. Also, a clean workspace with good lighting helps immensely.

Step 1: Removing the Chain

The chain is often the easiest starting point when removing a drivetrain. On most modern bikes, chains have a master link (quick link) that can be opened without tools. If yours doesn’t have one, you’ll need a chain breaker tool.

To remove:

• If your chain has a master link, locate it by finding a link that looks different from others—usually with clips on each side.
• If present, use master link pliers or your fingers to disengage it by squeezing together and pulling apart.
• If no master link exists, position your chain breaker on one pin of the chain and push it out slowly until you can separate the chain.
• Once separated, carefully remove the entire chain from around chainrings and cassette.

Keep in mind chains can be greasy; wearing gloves makes cleanup easier.

Troubleshooting Chain Removal

Sometimes chains stick due to rust or dirt buildup. Applying some lubricant before attempting removal can ease stubborn pins. Avoid forcing pins too hard as this may damage links.

Step 2: Removing the Crankset

Cranksets vary widely depending on brand and model but generally involve removing crank arms from the bottom bracket axle.

First:

• Shift your bike into the smallest front chainring to reduce tension on components.
• Locate crank arm bolts—usually hex bolts at the center of each arm.

To remove:

• Use an appropriately sized Allen key (often 8mm) to unscrew these bolts counterclockwise.
• If your crank has a preload cap (small bolt in center), loosen it first before removing main bolts.
• If equipped with self-extracting bolts (common on Shimano), continue unscrewing until crank arm pops off axle automatically.
• If not self-extracting, use a crank puller tool: thread it into crank arm threads then turn handle to pull arm off axle gently.

Once removed from both sides, you’ll have full access to chainrings for cleaning or replacement.

Differentiating Crank Types

Some bikes feature one-piece cranks (older models) where arms are integrated with spindle; these require different removal methods involving loosening nuts at frame ends.

Step 3: Removing Cassette from Rear Wheel

The cassette sits on splines of your rear hub’s freehub body. To remove it:

• Remove rear wheel from bike frame by releasing quick release lever or thru-axle.
• Fit cassette lockring tool snugly into lockring located at center of sprockets.
• Wrap a chain whip around one of largest sprockets to hold cassette steady—this prevents rotation when loosening lockring.
• Using an adjustable wrench or socket wrench on lockring tool, turn counterclockwise firmly until lockring unscrews completely.
• The entire cluster of sprockets will slide off freehub body easily once unlocked.

Store all sprockets carefully as they fit together in specific order.

Cassette vs Freewheel Differences

Freewheels thread onto hubs directly and require different removal tools like freewheel removers; cassettes slide onto splined freehub bodies.

Step 4: Detaching Derailleurs and Cables

Derailleurs control gear shifting by moving chains across sprockets. Removing them involves disconnecting cables and unbolting mounts.

For front derailleur:

• Sift through cable housing near derailleur clamp; loosen cable anchor bolt using Allen key or screwdriver.
• Pry derailleur clamp open slightly if needed; slide derailleur off seat tube mount carefully without bending cage fingers.

For rear derailleur:

• Squeeze cable anchor bolt loose after shifting into smallest cog for slack cable tension.
• Unscrew derailleur mounting bolt connecting it to derailleur hanger on dropout using appropriate hex key (usually 5mm).
• Cautiously pull derailleur away from hanger once bolt is removed—avoid damaging hanger threads if planning reinstallation later.

Removing cables entirely may require cutting if they are corroded or permanently attached inside housing ends.

Cable Management Tips

Label cables before removal if unsure about routing order; this helps during reassembly.

The Bottom Bracket Removal Process

The bottom bracket houses bearings inside frame shell allowing cranks’ smooth rotation. Different types exist: cartridge units screw into shell threads while external bearing cups sit outside frame ends.

To remove cartridge bottom brackets:

• Select correct bottom bracket tool matching splines/patterns on cups (e.g., Shimano Hollowtech II).
• Insert tool into cup; turn counterclockwise on drive side (right) cup while holding non-drive side steady (may require opposing turns).
1. On non-drive side cup, unscrew clockwise since threads are reverse-threaded here for security during pedaling forces.

External bearing types often unscrew similarly but may need additional spanners for bearing cups outside shell edges.

Handle frame carefully during this step as applying excessive force risks damage especially on carbon fiber frames.

Bicycle Drivetrain Maintenance After Removal

Once drivetrain components are removed, it’s prime time for thorough cleaning and inspection:

• Cassette & Chainrings: Soak in degreaser solution then scrub grime buildup off teeth with brushes designed for bike gears.
• Chain: Inspect links for wear/stretch using ruler gauges; replace if elongation exceeds recommended limits.
• Cables & Housings: Replace frayed cables ensuring smooth shifting afterward.
• Bearing Surfaces: Clean bottom bracket shell internally; regrease threads before reinstalling new unit.
• Pulleys & Derailleur Cages:Add lubricant sparingly after cleaning moving parts.

Regular maintenance extends drivetrain life dramatically while improving ride quality by reducing friction noise and shifting delays.

Bicycle Drivetrain Component Specifications Table

Component	Main Tools Needed	Description/Notes
Chain	Chain breaker tool/master link pliers	Sized by speed compatibility (e.g., 9-speed vs.11-speed chains)
Crankset & Chainrings	Allen keys/crank puller tool/preload cap wrench	Diverse designs: square taper, ISIS spline, Hollowtech II among others
Cassette & Freehub Body	Cassette lockring tool + Chain whip + Wrench/socket wrench	Cassettes differ by speed count; check compatibility when replacing
D erailleurs & Cables	Hex keys/screwdrivers/pliers	Cable tension adjustment critical post-removal/reinstallation
Bottom Bracket	Bottom bracket-specific socket/spanner tools	Thread direction varies between sides; consult manufacturer specs

Troubleshooting Common Issues During Removal

Sometimes parts refuse to budge due to corrosion or overtightening over time. Here’s how to tackle stubborn components:

• Rusty Chains : Apply penetrating oil overnight before attempting removal; gentle taps with rubber mallet may loosen tight pins .
• Stuck Cassette Lockring : Ensure correct tool fitment ; apply additional leverage cautiously . Heat application via hairdryer can expand metal slightly easing removal .
• Crank Arm Resistance : Use crank puller properly aligned ; avoid twisting force which risks damaging threads . Try soaking joints in penetrating oil .
• Bottom Bracket Cups : Use long-handled wrenches for better torque ; impact tools not recommended unless experienced . Carbon frames need extra care .
• Cable Anchors Tightened Too Much : Use proper Allen key size ; avoid rounding bolt heads by applying steady pressure . Cutting cables last resort .

Patience is key here—rushing may cause permanent damage requiring part replacement costing more than labor saved.

The Importance of Proper Reinstallation After Removal

Removing drivetrain parts isn’t just about taking them off—it’s also about putting them back correctly so your bike runs smoothly again. Improper reassembly leads to poor shifting performance, increased wear rates , noise , or even safety hazards like slipping chains .

Key tips include :

• Apply recommended lubricants sparingly but thoroughly on threads , bearings , pivots , and contact surfaces before tightening bolts .
• Torque bolts according manufacturer specifications using torque wrenches where possible . Over-tightening cracks carbon frames , under-tightening causes loosening mid-ride .
• Adjust derailleurs precisely after reinstalling cables ensuring correct indexing across gears . Test shifts through all cogs before final ride .
• Check bottom bracket spins freely without play after installation ; any grinding indicates misalignment needing correction .
• Inspect chain length relative to new drivetrain setup especially if replacing components separately rather than as matched groupsets . Too long causes poor shifting , too short stresses parts excessively .

Taking time here pays dividends in reliability , longevity , and enjoyment every time you hit pedals .

Frequently Asked Questions

How to remove the chain when removing a drivetrain bicycle?

Start by locating the master link on your chain, which usually looks different from other links. If your chain has a master link, you can open it with master link pliers or your fingers. Without a master link, use a chain breaker tool to push out a pin and separate the chain.

What tools are needed to remove a drivetrain bicycle?

Essential tools include a chain breaker tool, cassette lockring tool, chain whip, hex wrenches (4mm, 5mm, 8mm), bottom bracket tool, screwdrivers, and pliers or cable cutters. Having these ready ensures a smooth and efficient drivetrain removal process.

How do you remove the cassette when removing a drivetrain bicycle?

Use a cassette lockring tool along with a chain whip to hold the cassette in place. Insert the lockring tool into the cassette lockring and turn counterclockwise while holding the cassette steady with the chain whip until it loosens and can be removed from the hub.

What is the process for removing crankset during drivetrain bicycle removal?

First, remove any bolts securing the crank arms using appropriate hex wrenches. Then carefully pull off the crank arms from the bottom bracket spindle. Some cranksets require specific tools like a crank puller for safe removal without damaging components.

How to safely detach derailleurs when removing a drivetrain bicycle?

Begin by loosening the bolts that attach derailleurs to the frame using hex wrenches or screwdrivers. Disconnect derailleur cables if necessary by releasing cable tension and cutting cables carefully. Remove derailleurs gently to avoid damaging mounting points or cables.